Interviewing Felicity Cloake, we delve into the delightful world of Alsace’s unique take on coq au vin—a dish that masterfully combines tangy and creamy flavors while embodying a blend of sophistication and rustic charm.
“Coq au vin in Alsace is a classic that truly stands on its own,” Felicity explains. “Unlike the heavier reds from the south, we prefer a fruity local white, often a medium-dry riesling. However, I advise that if you’re struggling to find a good riesling at a reasonable price, any decent medium white will do just fine. This dish is quintessential for autumn dining, especially when paired with freshly baked bread or creamy mashed potatoes to soak up that rich gravy.”
Felicity provides us with an overview of the preparation. “It’s relatively straightforward: you’ll need to marinate the chicken for several hours for optimal flavor, and the entire cooking process takes about three hours and forty-five minutes. This recipe serves about four to six people.”
When it comes to the chicken, she has some insights. “I suggest using a whole chicken, as this retains more flavor, but you could easily opt for six thighs or a mix of chicken parts. Just remember to keep the bones in for a richer taste. You can remove them before serving if that’s your preference.”
Next, she shares her thoughts on choosing the right wine for the dish. “A medium-dry riesling is the traditional choice, as the name suggests. But if it’s hard to come by, try a dry riesling, pinot blanc, or even a fruity sauvignon or chenin blanc. Just a tip: don’t spend more on the cooking wine than you would on the wine you’ll be drinking with your meal; the subtleties of an expensive wine will get lost in the cooking.”
Marinating the chicken is the next step. Felicity walks us through it: “Cut the garlic head in half and combine it with the chicken and a few herbs in a large bowl. Pour in the wine, cover it up, and let it marinate in the fridge for up to twelve hours. The longer, the better!”
She continues with the stock. “Use the chicken carcass and any leftover herbs in a deep pan, add chopped carrot and onion, cover with cold water, and simmer gently for about an hour and a half. It’s all about building layers of flavor.”
Felicity emphasizes the importance of straining the stock. “Once the stock is done, strain it and set it back on the heat to reduce it down to about 300ml. This can actually be done a day ahead of your meal—just refrigerate overnight!”
Moving on to the base of the stew, she advises, “Pat the chicken dry and season it well. Sauté some lardons in butter until golden, then add leeks and mushrooms to create a beautiful aromatic base before browning the chicken.”
With a precision that comes from practice, Felicity shares, “After frying the chicken, mix in some flour, add your marinade, and let it simmer with the stock until the chicken is tender and falling off the bone.”
To finish off the dish, she suggests a creamy addition. “Whisk together cream and an egg yolk in a small bowl, then slowly whisk this mixture into your sauce. Return it to a gentle heat and cook until thickened. Finally, stir in your cooked leeks, mushrooms, lardons, and chicken, and serve it up garnished with fresh parsley.”
With Felicity’s guidance, cooking Alsace’s coq au vin becomes a delightful culinary adventure, perfect for sharing with friends and family during the cozy autumn months.
