The taste of tahini can range from bitter and thick to nutty and creamy. How do you go about selecting the right variety?
Yotam Ottolenghi recently addressed a question about whether one should always assume hulled tahini is the default in recipes. John from London SE23 expressed uncertainty about whether hulled and unhulled versions are interchangeable due to their distinct flavors.
“I’m delighted by this question,” Ottolenghi admitted. “It makes me smile to know that my usual emphasis on this topic may come off as vague. I actually hold strong opinions about tahini, as there is such an incredible variety available—some are bitter and claggy, while others are smooth, nutty, and creamy.”
He elaborated that tahini is simply sesame seeds ground into a paste and, similar to other seeds and nuts, the flavor can vary dramatically. “It’s akin to how one walnut can taste completely different from another, ranging from rancid to wonderful.”
When it comes to the preferred type, Ottolenghi emphasized, “If you’re like me and prefer the smooth, nutty, and creamy kind, you’ll want to go for hulled sesame seed tahini, specifically hulled Ethiopian humera sesame. It consistently produces a delicious paste. Bodrum tahini, often marked as ‘hulled,’ typically comes from the Levant and is also creamy and smooth.”
The best way to determine the quality of tahini is through taste. “It should be runny, smooth, and enjoyable to eat straight from the jar or to drizzle over ice cream, toast, porridge, or roasted vegetables,” he noted. “If it doesn’t start out creamy and rich, it won’t magically transform when mixed into a dish.”
As for brand recommendations, he usually prefers Al Arz but also considers Belazu, which is available in many large supermarkets, as another excellent option. Once you find a tahini you adore, “It’s open sesame!” he concluded.
Yotam Ottolenghi has been inspiring home cooks through his Guardian recipes since 2006, and now he and his team are ready to tackle all your kitchen questions in a new weekly column. Whether you have queries about skills, tools, or ingredients, they are the experts with the answers. Feel free to ask anything!
